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    Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott are the husband-and-wife storytelling and photography team behind Uncornered Market. They travel deep and off-beat, aiming to connect the world through people, food and adventure. Six years and 75 countries later, they are still going...and still married. Read more…

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  • Suggested Reading

    How Soccer Explains the World: An Unlikely Theory of Globalization

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    Author: Franklin Foer
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    Guns, Germs, and Steel: The Fates of Human Societies, New Edition

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    Author: Jared Diamond
    An admirable crack at explaining why the world is the way it is by way of an anthropological macro-history. This book probably comes up the most in conversation as we travel.

    The Cathedral Within: Transforming Your Life by Giving Something Back

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    Playing the Enemy: Nelson Mandela and the Game That Made a Nation

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    Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Capetown

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    Outliers: The Story of Success

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    Shantaram: A Novel

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The Flip Side of the Land of Smiles


 Filed Under:  Perspectives, Southeast Asia, Thailand by Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott

Thailand, known as the Land of Smiles, is a beautiful and easy place to travel. In addition to the endless options of postcard white-sand beaches, trekking and elephant ride adventures, the country goes out of its way to welcome tourists and help them enjoy a relaxing holiday. Sure, they know it’s good for business – tourism brings in about 6% of the country’s GDP – but the Thai laid back and genuinely sunny demeanor seems a natural match for the tourism industry.

The sincere adoration of King Bhumibol Adulyadej is visible everywhere. Thais refer to the King as “our father” and the display of yellow shirts, a physical symbol of reverence to the king, is seen on every street corner in Thailand, especially on Mondays. The King’s image is in every store and home, and it’s displayed on billboards all over the country. He’s above human – a deity of sorts.

One guest house owner referred to him as “my king who takes care of us. He loves us and makes sure we all have food and shelter.” We had just seen Burmese refugees locked up in Ranong, awaiting return to Myanmar (a.k.a. Burma), and she was comparing the benevolence of her king with the cruelty of the Burmese military regime. She didn’t realize the irony in that the Thai government now is also a military regime; however, in the eyes of the Thais it’s a “cleansed” military regime, semi-legitimate due to the King’s approval.

The flip side of this reverence is Thailand’s lese majeste law, the one that severely punishes anyone who defames the King. The smiles go away…

Oliver Jufer, a 57-year-old Swiss tourist visiting Chiang Mai last December, learned this the hard way. In a drunken stupor, he defaced five posters of the King with spray paint (apparently after a store-owner declined to sell him alcohol because it was past the legal cut-off time).

The jail time for Oliver’s move could have been 75 years in prison, but he was eventually sentenced to 10 years in jail. His prayers were answered, and he received a rather magnanimous pardon from the King in April, just before the Thai New Year.

Thailand also made the news in April for banning youtube after a video appeared desecrating the image of the King. The video apparently showed foot prints and feet on the King’s image. Within days of the ban, several more disrespectful videos appeared. The irony is that more people have searched out and viewed these videos because of the news coverage. The Thai government is asking youtube to take down the videos, and youtube sites free speech as its reason for standing its ground.

We haven’t seen any polls done on this issue, but it’s likely that a vast majority of Thais would support upholding these severe lese majeste laws, even though they infringe on free speech. Free speech and criticism are for politicians and ordinary people; to them, the King is above them all, worthy of a different standard.



Related posts:

  1. This Land Is Not Your Land
  2. For the Love of Thai Food
  3. Visa Run to Myanmar
  4. Christmas in Krung Thep
  5. The Other Side of Luang Prabang
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