Comments on: Kazakhstan’s Postal Police

By: Daniel Noll

Daniel Noll — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 05:25:56 +0000

@Jack: We were accustomed to paranoia throughout Central Asia, but this took the absurdity to a new level.

When we were later in Dushanbe, there was a CIS/former Soviet state conference taking place. While taking a photo on the streets, we were given a similarly stern warning. In those circumstances, I appreciate it a bit more. In this case, we were asking for it. The streets were crawling with uniformed and plain clothes police.

By: Jack

Jack — Fri, 28 Jan 2011 11:41:53 +0000

I spent four months in Almaty in 2005, and I loved every minute of it. But, I saw that constant paranoia on the part of the locals all the time. Just walking around in the mall caused the eyes of security guards to be on you at all times (being American we didn’t look Kazakh). But after a while we got used to it and we didn’t care anymore.

I took a picture of a building once while out for a walk, and a man ran up to me speaking very sternly in Russian and pointing at my camera. I just shrugged my shoulders and said I didn’t understand, and he eventually went back into the building. We took lots of pictures anyway, probably over 1,000 pics during those four months, but learned to be discreet while doing so.

Jack

By: Dan

Dan — Wed, 05 Dec 2007 14:44:22 +0000

Nate: Thanks so much for commenting. When I experienced this, I wondered for a moment whether it was a figment of my imagination. But I actually took notes.

I’m surprised to hear that it’s equally difficult in the bazaar. On second thought, I’m not. There was a shopkeeper in the main bazaar who also told us that us that we were not allowed to take photos!! We were taking photos of his neighbor (competition) and he became offended. In retaliation, he pointed to a sign that indicated that photo-takers could be fined. Fortunately, an Uzbek vendor interceded, set us straight and said “go ahead.”

By: Nate

Nate — Tue, 04 Dec 2007 12:48:58 +0000

Hi! I stumbled upon your website. I’ve lived in KZ for the past eight years, and your experience at the post office is just daily par for the course for those of us who live there all the time. People in KZ like to have their little circles of power, and like to remind anyone who enters into that circle that they are in charge, and you are not. It’s true in government facilities or in the bazaar.

And I think that you used the right word about so much of life in KZ, that you are often treated as if you are “inhuman” – like you don’t matter a hill of beans. And if you are not a foreigner, it’s even worse.

The irony is, if you break down that wall, people will treat you like a king – foreigner or not!

It’s either hot or cold, and it’s not easy to do deal with, even after eight years.

By: Audrey

Audrey — Tue, 04 Dec 2007 04:25:43 +0000

Steven, I'm trying to imagine a scary Estonian security guard. Another fun story. When we noticed a cool mosaic at the post office in Bishkek, we asked permission to photograph it from the postal workers. They all thought we were crazy, implying "why wouldn't it be allowed?"

By: Audrey

Audrey — Tue, 04 Dec 2007 04:15:30 +0000

Susan, a business trip to Madrid – doesn’t sound like you’re living a bad life either! Keep us updated on your travel plans, especially if they are in the direction of Asia or Africa in the next six months. It would be really fun to meet up…and continue our wine bar practice from Prague days.

Given what we saw and heard when we were in Kazakhstan, I’m a bit surprised Kazakhstan will take presidency of the OSCE in 2010. But, maybe the responsibility and attention help change things in the country…

By: Steven Greimann

Steven Greimann — Tue, 04 Dec 2007 03:29:17 +0000

Dan’s time reminds me of when Scott Slankard and I were in an Estonian department store taking photos of products for a marketing seminar that we had to deliver the following week. Armed security guards caught Scott and took him to a back room. I was able to sneak out. Scott of course told a tall tale of his awful detention and how I deserted him.

By: Dan

Dan — Tue, 04 Dec 2007 02:27:35 +0000

Nicole: More proof that some people will say anything, no matter how absurd, to support their case. The whole scene was bizarre (but frightening nonetheless) and in stark contrast to the cheery, pastel Kazkakhstan tourism bureau ads that run on CNN in the surrounding Central Asian countries. At any rate, I was glad to send my postcard and keep my camera.

By: Susan Corke

Susan Corke — Mon, 03 Dec 2007 23:12:48 +0000

Hello Dan and Audrey! Your site is fabulous. I love that I can keep up with where you are in the world through beautiful pictures and amazing stories. Although, I must confess, I am pretty jealous. If only my life were as interesting! I just got back from Madrid though, which was great. I was there for the OSCE Ministerial, where Kazakhnstan was a big focus of discussion. Let me know if you will be in the U.S. any time soon. Otherwise, maybe I can meet up with you somewhere in the world!

Ciao,
Susan Corke

By: Nicole

Nicole — Mon, 03 Dec 2007 18:34:34 +0000

“Well, you know we don’t take photos here…in our country, in Kazakhstan.”

Someday you will be hailed as a hero for having taken the only photos in existence of life in late-2007 Kazakhstan.