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Multicultural Snacking in Malaysia

 Filed Under:  Food, Malaysia by Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott

You know, the Chinese are funny people: so long as their eyes are open, they are looking for food.

– an ethnic Chinese Malaysian man sizes up the Malaysian appetite for street food
Squid and Fava Beans
Truth is, this quote applies to just about everyone in Malaysia. And why not? Like many of its neighbors in Southeast Asia, Malaysia is home to the holy trinity of street food enjoyment: availability, quality and price.

From stink bean squid sambal to giant prawns in huge buckets of satay sauce, Malaysia delivers an experience of culinary and cultural diversity. Here’s a wee taste of the wide-ranging (Malay, Chinese, Indian and Indonesian) bites you might find.

Each region of Malaysia features its own culinary specialties. Here are a few favorites from our time in Penang, Kuala Lumpur, and Melaka.

Penang

The key to effective dining in Penang: find a “hawker center” and start sampling. For the uninitiated, hawker centers are organized areas of street food vendors, outfitted with plastic chairs and tables.

Penang Curry MeePenang Curry Mee: A signature Penang soup that features yellow egg noodles (mee), vermicelli (bee hoon), bean sprouts, fried tofu and prawns – all simmered in a light coconut milk-based curry broth. Although curry mee may look similar to curry laksa, the curry mee broth is usually lighter and less heavy on the coconut milk.
Where to find it: Gurney Drive Hawker Center near Georgetown in Penang.

 

Char Kway TeowChar Kway Teow: Think Malaysia’s version of pad Thai. Fried flat noodles, shrimp, fresh onions, bean sprouts, chili paste and a dose of scrambled eggs come together in this classic, delicious, and inexpensive Malaysian comfort food.
Where to find it: Gurney Drive Hawker Center near Georgetown in Penang.

 

Assam LaksaAssam Laksa: Rice noodles, cucumber, onions, cabbage and chilies served in a fish broth and capped off with a spoonful of dark prawn paste (hae ko). Although we prefer traditional curry laksa or Penang curry mee, assam laksa is certainly worth a try, particularly if you are new to the Malaysian table.
Where to find it: New Lane Hawker Junction off of Macalister Road in Georgetown.

 

Chee Cheong Fun: Fresh rice noodle rolls covered with prawn paste, peanut sauce and pepper sauce. Savory, zippy, nutty and sweet, this blend comes to the rescue of once bland-tasting rice noodles.
Where to find it: New Lane Hawker Junction off of Macalister Road in Georgetown.

Dosa GoodnessMasala Dosa: A typical southern Indian dish composed of a flat, crispy chickpea flour pancake filled with potato and vegetable masala. Drench your dosa in vegetable sambar, and cilantro-mint coconut chutney – then roll up your sleeves and dig in…with your (right) hand.
Where to find it: Restaurant Daun Pisang – Sri Ananda Bahwan – at 55 Penang Street in Georgetown.

 

Samosa Master of Little IndiaIndian snacks: Samosas (fried dough pockets filled with veggies and spices), chana masala (chickpeas mixed with spices and red onions), vada (spicy, savory donuts made of chickpea flour), and many other tasty Indian bites are available along the streets of Little India in Georgetown. Alternatively, try the friendly chana masala vendor next to the food court on Penang Hill.

 

Kuala Lumpur (KL)

Although KL has developed and gone high-tech, its people have thankfully not abandoned their street food roots.

Streetside LaksaCurry Laksa: The first thing out of our mouths when we checked into our guest house in Kuala Lumpur: “Where can we find the best curry laksa?”

It pays to know who to ask. One of the employees walked us to his favorite stand just around the corner. Curry laksa, another coconut milk-based curry soup, features thickness – thick noodles, fried tofu, roasted eggplant, shrimp, bean sprouts, and a Southeast Asian stew of tasty bits that we couldn’t identify. Spicy, rich, heavenly.
Where to find it: A street stall at the corner of Jalan Bukit Bintang and Jalan Sultan Ismail.

Dim Sum DreamsDim Sum: We are all about dim sum – anywhere, anytime of day. So when we passed by this stand with steamer baskets stacked high, we couldn’t help but stop for a bite, or two…or three.
Where to find it: At the street-side restaurants along Jalan Bukit Bintang.

 

Sambal SatongSambal Satong: Rich, roasted, and chock-full of tender squid, this dish had us coming back for more. Sambal sauces feature varying degrees of heat and sweetness depending on what’s inside. Generally, you’ll find some combination of tomato, shrimp paste, tamarind, chili paste, garlic, and lemon grass.
Where to find it: The best we tasted: a restaurant along Jalan Bukit Bintang called 1+1 Restaurant.

Light and HealthyStir-Fried Greens: After all the rich foods like curry laksa and sambal satong, a simple dish of quick-fried greens with crispy-fried garlic, a pile of fresh rice and a small bowl of chili sauce was exactly what we needed to balance out all the coconut milk coursing through our veins.
Where to find it: 1+1 Restaurant along Jalan Bukit Bintang.

 

Melaka (Malacca)

It’s actually worth spending a couple of days in sleepy Melaka (Malacca), if only to sample the Nyonya culinary specialties fused from Malay and Chinese influences (dating from the intermarriage of these two cultures centuries ago).

Satay...Keep it GoingSatay Heaven: There ain’t no satay like Capitol Satay.

The sequence: choose your dumplings and skewered vegetables, meat, and tofu from a display case, then settle into your seat – for you are about to be served. Known as satay celup (steamboat satay), the style of satay service at Capitol Satay has a whiff of hot pot influence. Instead of steaming with broth, your pot bubbles with a spicy, peanut-laden satay sauce. As our pot evaporated, waitresses were quick to top us off with buckets of ground peanuts and spicy masala.

The clincher for this place to go down in the Uncornered Market eating experience hall of fame: when a gaggle of giggling waitresses delivered gigantic prawns to our table…for free.
Where to find it: Capitol Satay is located at 41 Lorong Bukit Cina in Melaka. There’s usually a line outside, so come early, pace yourself…and smile, for you too may be treated to a dose of giant prawns.

Laksa Lemak NyonyaLaksa Lemak Nyonya: For every region of Malaysia, it’s own version of laksa. To our taste, Melaka laksa might just take the prize. A thick coconut milk soup loaded with fish balls, fried tofu, cucumber, spring onions, lime, and a dollop of chili sauce on top. Embarrassingly, we licked the bowl clean.
Where to find it: Donald and Lily’s Corner for Nonya food on Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren Street). This tiny place closes after lunch, so be sure to arrive early.

Tau Kua RojakTau Kua Rojak: Another typical Nonya dish featuring a balance of salty and sweet: fried bean curd (tau kua), cucumbers and pineapples topped with peanuts and rojak sauce (sweet and tangy, made from tamarind paste, shrimp paste, chili pepper, oyster sauce and brown sugar).
Where to find it: Donald and Lily’s Corner for Nonya food on Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren Street).

 

Sweet EndingsCendol: The sweet send-off, cendol features finely crushed ice with gula melaka (or palm sugar) and coconut milk. The fluorescent gummy worm-like dough bits – themselves called cendol – are made from green pea flour and the pressed juice of the pandan leaf. Think of it as an exotic take on the snow cone.
Where to find it: The stand right in front of Donald and Lily’s Corner or at the restaurant directly across the street.

 

More Photos of Malaysian Food


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16 Comments to: “Multicultural Snacking in Malaysia”

  1. 1
    nomadicmatt says:

    you just made me want to go back to south east asia. taiwanese food is awful. I heart penang curry

  2. 2
    Leigh says:

    Oh man…. drool.

    And what an excellent insider’s guide to the rich variety of possibilities! I’m stumbling this to remember whenever we make our way to Malaysia.

  3. 3
    Michael says:

    He he he….
    The Chinese people, so long as their eyes are open, they are looking for food. I suspect you could say for all Asian’s, as the food is so varied and delightful.

    Next trip to Thailand, I will definitely make it down to Malaysia!

  4. 4
    ten links for today | Travel On The Dollar says:

    [...] Multicultural Snacking in Malaysia 2. India Rail time-table and information 3. Medical tourism: Have illness, will travel [CNN] 4. Bus [...]

  5. 5
    Melanie@TravelsWithTwo says:

    Daniel, no one photographs food like you do! My husband, Adam, and I discovered a Malaysian restaurant last year in Alhambra, CA (a town near Pasadena that has an absolutely huge, multi-national Asian population) and have been devotees ever since.

    Just thinking about laksa makes you want to weep, doesn’t it?

    Thanks for inspiring us to actually go to Malaysia…to see what other culinary trouble we can get ourselves into!

  6. 6
    Audrey Scott says:

    @nomadicmatt: I hear you. We haven’t been to Taiwan so I can’t comment on the food there, but nothing seems to beat Southeast Asia for taste and price of food. Oh, this is making me “homesick” for a big bowl of laksa.

    @Leigh: And just think, this is only a beginner’s guide to Malaysian food! Maybe you can make a culinary journey to Malaysia from Argentina…for research purposes, of course.

    @Michael: I completely agree with you on that sentiment – we were in street food heaven all throughout Asia (except Central Asia).

    @Melanie: Vendors usually get a laugh out of us photographing our food, but sometimes it’s just too beautiful not to photograph and share. And, I think the vendors are secretly proud of all the attention we give to their dishes before we devour them!

    I had never been to a Malaysian restaurant in the States, so all of these dishes were new to me during our visit last year. Malaysian food is certainly a joy to explore!

  7. 7
    Jarratt says:

    Just a correction on Penang Curry Mee,

    “bee hoon” means rice vermicelli (or plain ol’ rice noodles) and “mee” means yellow noodles in Malaysian street food, not the other way round.

  8. 8
    Lola says:

    These food pictures are killer! My absolute favorite cuisine. Stumbled!

  9. 9
    Cross-Culture Tweets - Week 14 of 2009 says:

    [...] Multicultural Snacking in Malaysia – by @umarket – definitely brought back memories of great food [...]

  10. 10
    Daniel Noll says:

    @Jarratt: Thanks for the correction on the noodle swap.

    @Lola: Many thanks!

    @Melanie: Thanks! You would have a ball in Malaysia. Now that you mention it, the thought of laksa does make me weep…but food nearly brings me to tears all the time :)

  11. 11
    Karen Wee Lin Beckman says:

    Beautiful pictures guys… and that saying about Chinese people is SO true. I’m Malaysian-Chinese, born in Johor Bahru, now residing in Denver, CO. My family loves food – from the moment we wake up, till we go back to sleep, we’re constantly munching.

    I actually just started my own Malaysian food business a year ago, making/selling a bunch of delicious goodies that I love and miss so much at farmers markets – my western replica of the hawker stall. Check it out via my website – http://www.wee-bites.com. Can I link your website (particularly this page) to my website?

    Have fun traveling!

  12. 12
    Daniel Noll says:

    @Karen: Go ahead, please link to this page. I think it’s fascinating to watch the spread and evolution of ethnic and artisanal foods around the world. Good luck with your Malaysian food business and keep in touch.

  13. 13
    Nsalba says:

    As a Malaysian Chinese reading a white writing about our food, I think you did quite a good job of describing them, though not in great details, but good enough. If you ever were to come this way again, dont forget to visit my island Borneo, I promise you you will be surprised at the choice of hawker food fare here. Take a look at my website on food.
    cheers and keep on exploring!

  14. 14
    Daniel Noll says:

    @Nsalba: Next time around, we’ll definitely visit Borneo…and with your help, hopefully dig even deeper into Malaysian cuisine.

  15. 15
    The best country in the world for foodies!! - Page 5 - City-Data Forum says:

    [...] Malaysia, specifically Penang, has to be up there in the street food category: http://www.uncorneredmarket.com/2009…g-in-malaysia/ [...]

  16. 16
    Gabriel says:

    Late in the game here-

    I have a question about the curries.

    Is it most common to use fresh made coconut milk among the street vendors there, or do they use canned coconut milk like most if not all SE Asian restaurants do here in the US?

    Also, do Malaysians eat mainly Jasmine rice like Thais?

    Thanks!

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