• About Us

    Audrey Scott and Daniel Noll serve up a scatter plot of observations from rapidly changing countries on their journey around the world. Tune into Uncornered Market for human stories, engaging travel photography, street food reportage, and insights into personal growth. Read more…

  • Article Channels

    Travel Articles

    Food Articles

    Opinion and Perspective Articles

    Humor Articles
  • Donate: Buy a Footstep

    Currency:

    Amount:

    Website(Optional):

  • Articles by Country

  • Articles by Topic

  • Monthly Archives

  • Check These Out

  • Buy from Amazon

  • Suggested Reading

    The Cathedral Within: Transforming Your Life by Giving Something Back

    The Cathedral Within: Transforming Your Life by Giving Something Back
    Author: Bill Shore
    Inspiring profiles of social entrepreneurs and projects we all can learn from and hopefully replicate to give back to community.

    Playing the Enemy: Nelson Mandela and the Game That Made a Nation

    Playing the Enemy: Nelson Mandela and the Game That Made a Nation
    Author: John Carlin
    Although the storyline is built around the South African rugby team and the 1995 World Cup, this book is more about Nelson Mandela and how he was able to unite a divided country. Inspiring.

    Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Capetown

    Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Capetown
    Author: Paul Theroux
    The author re-visits Africa and re-assesses the place he once knew... and judges it once and for all. Well written, poignant observations of the thumbprints left by career politicians, aid workers, and everyday people.

    Outliers: The Story of Success

    Outliers: The Story of Success
    Author: Malcolm Gladwell
    A look at the internal and external factors of how extraordinary people got to be, well, extraordinary. One of those books that challenges assumptions and makes you think differently.

Honduras Photos: Before the Coup

 Filed Under:  Central America, Honduras, Photography by Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott

Sisterly LoveOur timing was again impeccable.

Honduras, a country we had just visited, experiences a military coup and begins to melt down just days after we leave its borders. Nicaraguan newspapers go so as far as to headline “Blood Bath.” Nothing from our visit indicated how events would turn so suddenly. With the exception of a taxi driver in La Ceiba ranting about corruption across the political spectrum (a common taxi driver tirade the world over), politics didn’t figure much in our other conversations.

You’ve probably seen the images on TV, websites and newspapers of riot police, protesters and barricades in Tegucigalpa, Honduras’ capital city. But if you’re curious as to what Honduras looks like without a coup, we share photos from our recent visit to the Ruta Lenca, the Mayan ruins at Copan and the bay island of Utila.

Ruta Lenca – Gracias, La Esperanza, Marcala

 

Family Affair at the MarketOur sojourn into the hills of Southwestern Honduras brought us in search of markets and indigenous culture. The Ruta Lenca (Route of the Lenca People) is apparently one of the country’s few remaining pockets of indigenous culture. Although its landscape, and agriculture appear lush and appealing, the region is also one of Honduras’ poorest.

When you consider the slow-going town of Gracias, you may find it difficult to believe that it was once the capital of all Spanish-controlled Central America. One woman active in the town’s reconstruction and development explained: “We don’t want Gracias to be another Antigua (Guatemala). We have a local culture and spirit that we want expressed. We don’t want to be seen just as a city of old, pretty buildings.”

We, however, will always associate Gracias with the Honduras-USA football World Cup qualifier match of June 2009.

Our arrival in La Esperanza was timed for its Sunday market, the largest of the regional markets where locals descend from neighboring villages with their produce and goods. From the town’s edge, the market ripples through covered areas and into makeshift stands on side streets. A minority of vendors and buyers are ethnic Lenca – their facial structures and smaller physiques distinguishing them from the majority mestizo (those of mixed Spanish and indigenous heritage) population. Their appearance serves as a physical reminder of how the people living in this region centuries ago must have looked.

Marcala, an even smaller town tucked amidst coffee plantations and farmland, served as our final stop in Honduras before we crossed the border into El Salvador. A curious characteristic of this place: the visible presence of Chinese interests. The town featured a large gaudy Chinese restaurant whose grandeur was distinctly un-Central American and a bit misfit for the size of the town. Additionally, there were several large hotels built in the blue glass and concrete aesthetic we recognized from our time in China. Perhaps most interesting, the local cable service in our hotel room featured two CCTV (Chinese government-run television) channels, one in Chinese and the other in Spanish.

We are still puzzled as to what business interests attracted the Chinese businessmen to this town.

See more photos from the Ruta Lenca

Mayan Ruins of Copan

 

Mayan Ruins of Copan: A Solemn FaceAlthough the Mayan ruins in Copan cannot compete for size with those in Tikal, Guatemala, they easily surpass them in the detail of their engravings and reliefs. Intricately carved stellae (holy statues) portray Mayan leaders from 800 years ago while history is told by the massive hieroglyph staircase.

A bonus of Copan ruins: you are welcomed into the park by a group of rambunctious scarlet macaws. We know the park feeds these birds to keep them around, but they are still really, really cool.

The small town of Copan Ruinas just a few minutes away has a strong tourism infrastructure due to its proximity to the ruins, but it still maintains a sleepy Honduran town feel.

The Copan Ruinas market is no different. From the reactions we received, it seems like not many gringos make it the extra few yards to the rear. Venture back for a plato tipico (local fare consisting of some sort of meat, beans, rice and tortilla) from a comedor (eatery) or fresh baleada (flour tortilla stuffed with beans, cheese and eggs) from the stand at the far right corner.

See more photos of Copan ruins and town

Bay Island of Utila

 

Taking an Afternoon Swim
Scuba diving is what Utila is all about for most visitors. Although our visit was mostly about work, we took some time out for a few dives and to enjoy the beach. Utila is not a place you go to experience Honduran cultural immersion, but its clear, Caribbean waters and laid-back pace can become addictive.

See more photos from the Bay Island of Utila

——————-

Some readers have suggested that we will run out of places to see when we complete our journey. We have no fear of this. We tend to depart each country with some familiarity and an even longer list of places we’d like to explore upon our return. For Honduras, this includes its northern coastline and Moskitia (Mosquito Coast), home to the Garifuna among others.

Possibly Related Articles:

7 Comments to: “Honduras Photos: Before the Coup”

  1. 1
    Nora says:

    Wow – those are beautiful shots, and a compelling story – thanks! The water is beautiful, and the people have so much depth to them. Latin America is very imminent on my travel list.

  2. 2
    Audrey Scott says:

    @Nora: Glad you enjoyed these! We try to use our photos to convey a more “every day” view of countries that we visit than what shows up on the evening news or as the latest crisis.

  3. 3
    Andy Hayes says:

    GORGEOUS photos as per usual. Wow. Thanks for sharing.

  4. 4
    Samuel Peterson says:

    All the photos are awesome; the pictures are telling the story of places. I am glad to read your blog.

  5. 5
    Audrey Scott says:

    @Andy and Samuel: Thanks for your kind words about our photographs and the story they try to tell of the places we visit!

  6. 6
    Moign Khawaja says:

    Very nice website I’ve stumbled upon recently. Truly fascinating. You guys are lucky, do you know that? :P

    I mean you guys are doing a great job and I wish you all the best for the upcoming journeys. Keep it up!

  7. 7
    Daniel Noll says:

    @Moign: We are aware of how fortunate we are, including how fortunate we are to have made the decision to travel and work like we have. Thank you for your compliments and words of encouragement.

Leave a Reply

Please use your REAL name and not your website or company name. People enjoy talking to people, not websites. Spam will be deleted, as will duplicate links. Thanks for taking part in the conversation.

Home | About Us | Contact Us | Site Map
© 2006-2010, Uncornered Market.
Articles may be excerpted with attribution, but not reproduced in whole. Photos may not be used without prior permission.