The Salkantay Trek: From Glaciers to Machu Picchu
Filed Under: “Oooh, Machu Picchu!” Even my mom caught the hype when I told her we were headed there last week. As excited as she’s been about our travels, I think that was the first “Oooh!” of our trip she ever uttered.
We kept our expectations low, however. Maybe it’s our reflex reaction to the prevailing travel wisdom: “Machu Picchu is the granddaddy of South American sights.”
But add to Machu Picchu a hike to the foot of a hulking 20,575 foot (6,271 meter) glacier, a walk through Andean valleys, and a skim of the Peruvian jungle. Throw in a diverse and upbeat group of travel companions to share the slog across switchbacks and up giant staircases, and the march to Machu Picchu becomes an event, a series of accomplishments and a trip well worth taking.
That was our Salkantay Trek.
If prose isn’t your thing, skip to the photos here:
(And don’t forget to check out the Salkantay Glacier and Machu Picchu 360-degree panoramas below.)
The Ascent to Salkantay
After surviving a hail storm and a slippery “short-cut” obstacle course of mountain streams, cows, cowpies, and rocks, we dined with our group at the 3,900 meter (12,800 foot) campsite of Soraypampa. Cold, wet and disoriented from altitude, more than a few of us entertained sneaking off to the five star lodge across the valley. But in the cache of the Humantay and Salkantay glaciers and the star clouds of the Milky Way, we worked ourselves to sleep.
“Buenos dias! Mate de coca!” Our guide Henrique seemed a bit too cheerful for a frosty 4:30 AM wake-up. Through our tent flap, two tin cups of piping coca leaf tea appeared. We huddled around the steam and mustered the courage to leave our warm sleeping bags.
Fortunately, a beautiful, clear day awaited us.
Shortly after 6 AM, we began our walk up. As we carved our way through gravel and rock, the sun began to rise over the peaks above us. The previous day’s fresh snowfall glistened with clean perfection. Photo-worthy views emerged at every turn.
Feeling sluggish and facing the most daunting set of switchbacks of the ascent, we reached for our stash of coca leaves. We tucked a wad of leaves in our mouths and chewed. Hoping for the clarity and energy boost that all locals promised, we pushed on with our mantra: “One foot in front of the other.”
After more than three hours of full ascent, we reached the pass at 4,650 meters (15,525 feet). The cairns laid there recalled similar stone piles neatly arranged for prayer and direction in places Nepal and Sikkim.
For our efforts, we were rewarded with this view:
Click on the box at the far right (4 arrows) and move inside the image using your cursor or the arrows.
The Way Down
Our descent witnessed a rapid transformation from the barren and crisp to the lush and balmy. When we stopped for the night, Sebastian, our horseman, arranged our tents on a verdant hillside clearing with an expansive view of the valley below. Exhaustion and relief reigned at the end of a long day. Some celebrated with a cold shower. We opted for a cold beer instead.
Our trekking group – nine people, four nationalities, and a 41-year age span from eldest to youngest – conversed its way from the day’s reflections to life in Peru and the effect of the “War on Drugs” in South America.
Day 3 of our trek was marked by wild orchids, tropical flowers, lush bamboo and waterfalls. In the few small villages we passed along the way, homes often appeared the same shade of mud brown as the recently turned fields that surrounded them.
Across the canyon, a road was being carved out of the mountainside, reminding us again of the never-ending struggle between man and nature. Landslides — likely the result clear-cut logging — marred the landscape. But it was clear that Mother Nature would win this battle by wiping out sections of the road with the next round of heavy rains.
The weather continuously warmed until our arrival in Santa Teresa, where we relaxed our aching muscles in the natural hot springs. We submerged ourselves in an effort to take refuge from swarms of bugs with ferocious appetites for human blood.
We had completed 57 of the 75 kilometers of the trek. We were in the home stretch.
On Day 4, just a few more kilometers, a hydroelectric plant, and railroad tracks stood between us and our fourth and final night in Aguas Calientes.
Machu Picchu – Our Final Destination
Gluttons for punishment, we began the uphill grind from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu on foot at 4:30 AM. Motivation for such a departure: to arrive early enough to obtain one of the 400 available daily permits to climb Wayna Picchu (the steep mountain seen in the background of every Machu Picchu photo). Between us and our goal lay a maddening series of switchbacks and steep rock stairways, and a 400 meter (1,300 foot) climb that would leave us drained and drenched in sweat.
When we arrived, Machu Picchu and the surrounding peaks remained shrouded in morning fog. The light was soft; the atmosphere was — for lack of a more appropriate cliché — mystical. Terraced fields cascaded from the ancient city, showcasing yet another of man’s battles with nature. When we asked the guide why we don’t see terraced fields in Andean villages today, he responded: “We’re too lazy now to build them.”
Makes you wonder what happened to the culture in the intervening years.
Machu Picchu strikes us as one of those places best appreciated as a whole, in the context of its surrounding environment. In this way, it’s possible to begin to grasp what the Incas had accomplished: the installation of a complex, functioning city into an uncooperative mountainside.
A walk up to the top of Wayna Picchu (an endeavor not for the faint of heart) affords one of these all-encompassing panoramic views. From there, Machu Picchu appears a hillside birthmark amidst a vast, imposing mountain range.
Click on the box at the far right (4 arrows) and move inside the image using your cursor or the arrows.
And as the day drew to a close and the crowds thinned, we took a cue from these folks:
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Why the Salkantay Trek and not the Traditional Inca Trail?
Slots on the traditional Inca Trail are restricted to 500 people per day and demand is so high that booking 3-5 months in advance is usually required. We almost never book anything in advance since our plans change as projects and opportunities arise.
The traditional Inca trail is littered with Inca ruins. On the surface, this sounds ideal. However, we’ve heard stories of trekkers who begin to suffer ruin saturation and fatigue, so much so that by the time they arrive at Machu Piccchu, they feel some letdown. Not so with Salkantay where the trek is defined by imposing glaciers, lush valleys and high jungle; Machu Picchu is the only set of ruins you will see. If ruins are your focus, the traditional Inca Trail is obviously the route for you.
We also trek to get away. The Salkantay Trek offers a low-traffic alternative to an undoubtedly more crowded traditional Inca Trail. Having said that, reports suggest that people are not falling over one another on the traditional Inca Trail. One final consideration: perhaps due to demand and reputation, treks on the Traditional Inca Trail also tend to be better organized.
Taking all this into account, were both options available to us at the time of booking, we would still have opted for the Salkantay Trek.
October 14th, 2009 at 5:26 pm
I couldn’t agree more. I did Salkantay as well, since the permits were sold out for the Incan Trail. The first night’s camp, nestled between Humantay and Salkantay mountains, was one of the more magical moments in 18 mos of travel and there was almost nobody on the trail. I actually found MP a bit of a let down after the splendour of the hike itself. Minus the llamas. The llamas were well worth it.
October 14th, 2009 at 5:40 pm
@Legal: Love the llama comment. We are having a good laugh. As cliche as those llamas were, we found them a nice touch, apropos. I didn’t find them terribly animated though. They just sat lounging in one of the big fields munching away for most of the day. After the crowds departed, I was hoping they might move about, allowing us to get one of those ridiculous prized postcard shots of a llama under the guard house, with the city and Wayna Picchu in the background.
Regarding the letdown upon arrival an Machu Picchu, a number of people in our group felt the same. The trek — particularly the climb to the pass — was the highlight. Part of that is adrenaline, I’m sure. Also, when it comes to ruins vs. personal accomplishment, accomplishment wins out.
Happy trails.
October 14th, 2009 at 5:55 pm
I’ve got a bit of a llama…problem. They were my favorite animal growing up and I was like a kid in a candy store in Chile and Peru. I have far too many llama picture from MP, but none are truly picturesque – in most of them, I’m too busy trying to hug a llama!
Agreed about the accomplishment. Did you climb Putucusi when you were there? I loved that part of the trek – you get high up above the trail and can see the road up, sun gate and the full ruins. It’s all ladders and ropes to climb. Definitely recommended.
Safe travels to the two of you – I’m glad to have stumbled upon your site as there is a ton of wonderful information here!
-Jodi
October 14th, 2009 at 9:35 pm
Your panorama shots are just amazing – and your post has successfully made me think that this just might be the better option! I love your step-by-step account of trek and thanks for the mini comparison of the two treks at the end
October 14th, 2009 at 9:55 pm
Wow! If you navigate around your panoramas fast enough you don’t even need the coca leaves. Great post. Sounds like you had a fantastic trek.
October 15th, 2009 at 12:35 pm
@Jodi: Still laughing over the llama…problem. We did not climb Putucusi. By the time we descended Wayna Picchu, we were pretty much spent. We headed in the direction of the Inca bridge (a disappointment, in my opinion). Ropes and ladders sound like fun. Thanks for the safe travel sentiment. Glad that you are finding Uncornered Market useful. Any specific questions, don’t hesitate to send us an email.
@Shannon: We’re glad we could be of help in making the decision between the traditional Inca Trail and the Salkantay Trek. Unfortunately, online information about these treks seems plentiful, but much of it is a re-hash and intended to rank tour agency entries high on search engines. We are planning another post about choosing tour agencies for Machu Picchu treks – a humorous and practical reflection on choosing a tour agency and what you should expect (or not expect) regarding how your trek is organized.
Thanks also for the kudos on the panorama shots. We’re glad they worked out. The one atop Wayna Picchu was particularly difficult – one of those body-bending gymnastic efforts to avoid stepping on people, falling off the rock and capturing the photo properly. No easy feat.
@Pete: Your comments kill me. I’m still laughing.
October 15th, 2009 at 6:52 pm
The Salkantay Trek sounds amazing ~ I would love to go back and take this path. The minimal number of people alone would be worth it.
It looks like you had beautiful weather, and your photos are AMAZING! We had mist and fog when we were at Machu Picchu, and we wanted to climb Wayna Picchu but people coming down said you couldn’t see anything from the top so we never went up (plus it’s a little dangerous with mist, or so we were told). Thanks for sharing your experience!
October 17th, 2009 at 9:12 am
Hey guys,
Thanks for this comparison of the two trail options. The photos are of course, breathtaking. The comrodary seems tight on these treks. Travel seems to evoke the reflective philosopher in all of us. Keep the prose and photos coming!
Blakesjourney / tBD
October 17th, 2009 at 10:38 am
Awesome post and photographs. When we went to Machu Picchu, we were on a limited time frame and booked out trip at the last minute. We didn’t get to trek at all and had to take the train. I didn’t feel too bad about missing out on the trek, until I read your post.
The Salkantay Trek looks like our cup of tea. Maybe we will make it back one day. You never know.
October 18th, 2009 at 9:40 pm
Congrats on finishing the trek – I love that picture at the top because you both look so happy! This is one of those places that is a dream for every traveler. We definitely wanted to do the Inca Trek but were a bit concerned about booking so far in advance; but this trek looks like it may be more our speed. Lovely photos.
October 19th, 2009 at 4:18 pm
We are psyched to be doing this trek in late January. Thanks for bringing this wonderful Machu Picchu option to light! As always your writing clearly communicates the mood and emotion.
October 19th, 2009 at 8:57 pm
@JoAnna: We were blessed with good weather on our day at Machu Picchu and the ascent to the pass. Perhaps it was to make up for the rain and hail on the first day
@Blake: Spending several days together overcoming physical and emotional challenges does tend to bond people. We really couldn’t have asked for a better group.
@Dave and Deb: There is always next time…the Salkantay Trek isn’t going away any time soon.
@Akila: You are right – we were really happy to have made it to Machu Picchu after four days of hiking! Combining a trek with a visit to Machu Picchu really makes you feel like you “earn” the visit.
You can book the Salkantay Trek within a day in Cusco, so if you want to stay flexible, this is definitely the way to go.
@Jason: Glad we were able to convey the spirit of the trek! If you do this trek in January, you will likely have a more green landscape. Should be quite beautiful.
October 20th, 2009 at 9:05 am
Congrats on completing the trek. Sounds like a great time.
Like Akila said, you guys looked soooooo happy in that Machu Picchu shot!
October 20th, 2009 at 10:43 am
Does this trek include porters or do you carry everything yourselves?
October 21st, 2009 at 9:26 pm
@Lola: Thanks! The whole trekking + Machu Picchu experience was great.
@Jason: The Inca Trail has porters (horses are not allowed) and you have to pay extra for that (something like $10/day for 20 kilos). However, the Salkantay Trek allows horses and most tours include 5-6 kilos of weight carried by the horse as part of the price. The horses also carry the camping equipment and food. We carried our camera equipment, rain gear, sunscreen (a must!) and jackets. It’s much nicer to walk without having to carry sleeping bags and such!
November 5th, 2009 at 1:15 am
I did walk the Inca Trail and have never walked Salkantay. I find it hard to believe that people have ruins fatigue, the settings and ruins along the trail put in some context what an extraordinary and developed culture the Incan had along with some superb scenery (though it sounds like the mountains scenery from the Salkantay may be better). Walking on the same steps and camping next to ruins that formed part of a sophisticated culture some 500 years ago certainly was a highlight of my Peruvian visit. Though seeing MP unveil itself at the Sun Gate from the mist at dawn on the last morning of the trek is a special experience as you describe.
November 5th, 2009 at 11:03 am
Man, that Machu Pichu picture is really cool! Your smiles make the picture …!
November 15th, 2009 at 2:17 pm
@Mark H: Consider yourself fortunate that you didn’t get ruin fatigue. Based on our conversations with other culturally sensitive and curious travelers young and old, “temple fatigue” is a common phenomenon. Many other travelers from along the Inca Trail reported it to us. We’ve also experienced it…not on the Inca Trail of course, but at Angkor Wat and Hindu temple trails throughout South Asia. As another traveler put it, “you reach a point where you just can’t absorb anymore.” I think it happens with anything — culture, people, or landscape — particularly when you’ve been immersed in it for any extended period of time.
@Blaz: Thanks. Great to hear from you!
November 25th, 2009 at 11:57 am
LOVED this post! We enjoyed doing Salkantay so much. The terrain was incredible — we couldn’t believe how many diverse microclimates we passed through; did that all happen on the same trip!? Wayna Picchu was a great challenge right at the end. We really enjoyed seeing another perspective on the same route — your 360’s are INCREDIBLE! Thanks so much for sharing.
November 28th, 2009 at 12:37 pm
@Jeremy and Eva: The diversity of terrain was certainly one of the most satisfying features of the Salkantay trek. I think that’s why if we were faced with the decision again, our choice would remain the same. Glad you enjoyed the 360 panoramas. Both Machu Picchu and the Salkantay glacier seemed to invite us to take them.
December 4th, 2009 at 11:01 am
Audrey and Dan
I am sure you don’t regret for a moment that you chose South America. Keep going and GOOD LUCK!