Insider’s Prague: Tourist Traps to Avoid, What to Do, Where to Eat
Filed Under: While we lived in Prague, we were simultaneously awed by its beauty and frustrated by the rapacious tourism development that had swamped its old town. Recently, I’ve read a few blog posts from travelers disappointed by their visits to Prague because of the city’s tourist schlock. Yes, there’s a fair heap of it. But, there are also ways to avoid it.
Many moons ago, during our first month living in Prague, I remember exiting Charles University after a Czech language class and looking up at a night-lit Prague Castle and thinking, “My God, do I actually live here?”
It didn’t seem real.
Even after five years of living in Prague, I could still turn a corner, catch the right light and get that feeling. Prague is a Bucket List and “Top 10 Romantic Cities” favorite — for good reason. But frankly, there’s also a lot of crap that can leave a casual visitor tourist-worn.
During my last visit to Prague, I played tourist for a day and forced myself to walk through through its main tourist artery — from the Prague Castle, over the Charles Bridge, down Karlova Street, through Old Town, up to the top of Wenceslas Square. Maybe it had improved since we lived there?
Nope.
But all is not lost. Here are some ideas on how to minimize the tourist schlock, what to replace it with, and what to eat at the end of the day.
Prague: What to Avoid
1. Karlova Street
In tourist hell, right next door to Fisherman’s Wharf and Khao San Road is Prague’s souvenir-engorged Karlova Street. If you only retain one piece of information from this post, it should be this: avoid this street like the plague. Don’t ask why, don’t be tempted. Just avoid it. Your visit will be all the better for it.
Alternative: But how am I going to get from Charles Bridge to Old Town Square? Easy. When you come off the Charles Bridge (on the opposite side of the river from Prague Castle), cut through the Karolinum (look for the doorway across the street to the left of Karlova street) and enjoy a peaceful stroll through a 14th century courtyard.
2. Concerts — or anything for that matter – sold by people in period costumes
If classical music’s greatest hits served up in machine-gun style is your thing, by all means head right for the guys in period outfits. If, however, you have a taste for a full symphony and the real, high-quality, accessible classical music Prague is known for, go elsewhere.
Alternative: See #2 below for where to find high quality shows.
3. Wenceslas Square at Night
Where protesters once stood up to Soviet tanks during Prague Spring in 1968, hawkers now stand up for your opportunity to patronize their strip clubs. After dark, Wenceslas Square becomes a central place for strip club touts, prostitutes, their pimps and all manner of the shady and unpleasant. Although it’s not unsafe per se, it’s best avoided.
Alternative: After dark, walk any of the streets parallel to Wenceslas Square or take the metro to avoid the area altogether.
4. Astronomical Clock Show on the Hour
I know I’m going to get crap for this one. Don’t get me wrong, the medieval astronomical clock on the side of Old Town City Hall is beautiful and worth a look. But really, don’t worry about fighting with the tourist hordes that gather on the hour to see the “show.” The hourly spectacle features some figures moving around, a rooster call (my personal favorite) and a dancing skeleton (Dan’s personal favorite). However, it’s really not worth the elbowing and unpleasant crowds you have to deal with to watch it.
Alternative: Have the clock to yourself to admire at any time outside the top-of-the-hour. If you find yourself tiring of the crowds on Old Town Square, pop up to the rooftop terrace at U Prince hotel, order a cocktail, and enjoy the view from above. It’s particularly nice at sunset.
5. Prague’s Scams and Overcharging at Tourist Restaurants
Unfortunately, some touristy restaurants and taxis still hold a narrowly opportunistic view of tourism and tourists (i.e., they scam anyone who looks like fresh meat).
What to do: Don’t let these places get away with it: be vigilant, mind your bill, count your change, and question or complain if you are being cheated. If you don’t, you’ll be doing yourself — and all other tourists who follow in your footsteps — a disservice. If your restaurant bill arrives with extra service charges or “taxes” that are not specifically called out on the menu, refuse to pay them.
If you need a taxi, have the hotel or restaurant call one in advance. I would never pick up a taxi outside the front door of the train station or hotel (these are usually reserved for suckers). If you pick up a taxi on the street, use a company like AAA or ProfiTaxi. Finally, if you’ve been grossly overcharged, pay what you believe is fair and walk away. We’ve done it.
Prague: The Good Stuff
With the unpleasant stuff out of the way, let’s focus on what to visit besides the Prague tourist triad (Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, Old Town Square). The aim: to give you a feel for a living city whose history goes long beyond just a few pretty buildings.
You might be thinking as you read, “But that’s outside the city center.” In some cases, our recommendations are outside of the Old Town City center, but they are not so far. Within a few minutes, you are a tram, metro or a few footsteps away.
1) Vyšehrad: An Alternative Castle
Just down the Vlatava River from Prague Castle is the lesser-known 10th century castle of Vyšehrad. In addition to offering great views of the Vltava River and the city, Vyšehrad features grassy grounds stocked full of locals having picnics with family and friends. The cemetery at Vyšehrad is also home to many of Czech greats of art and music, including Alphonse Mucha and Antonín Dvořák. The Peter and Paul church is also worth a look – neo-gothic on the outside, but Mucha-inspired art nouveau murals on the inside.
View of Vyšehrad Castle from the Vltava River
2. Classical Music Concerts and Operas
Prague’s music scene is one of the things that kept us there so long. Even if you’re not a huge classical music aficionado, it’s still worth trying to see a concert just to experience the venue.
Go directly to ticket offices or a venue’s box office for real performances. Basically, if the concert is associated with a national ensemble, you’re more likely to see a high quality concert at a lower price.
If your visit coincides with Prague Spring, try to book tickets in advance or, for last minute tickets, visit the box office. Prague Spring often features top performers, conductors and orchestras from around the world. I cannot begin to count the $1000s of dollars we would have spent on all the performances we took in had we seen the performers on their home turf. Prices continue to go up, but are still reasonable compared with Western Europe and the United States.
Suggested concert venues: Rudolfinum (our favorite venue and home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra), National Theatre, State Opera
3. Exploring Prague’s Neighborhoods
Although Prague’s Old Town (Staré Město) and Lesser Town (Malá Strana) often steal the Prague tourist show (for good reason), it’s worth it to spend time poking around some of the surrounding neighborhoods. The architectural stock in Prague’s residential neighborhoods is impressive. Walk, look up and soak it up. Architectural period melange, details, mosaics, statues, paintings, are all standard fare. Not to mention, this is the way you’ll really begin to understand what modern-day living in Prague is all about.
Suggested neighborhoods: Vinohrady, Vrsovice (our old neighborhood), Holesovice
4. Beer gardens
When the weather is warm (or at least un-cold), Prague’s beer gardens are the place to while away an afternoon, evening, or possibly even both. Beer gardens are casual affairs with long, simple picnic tables, a food stand or two serving greasy sausages, and — most importantly — an endless supply of freshly pulled Czech beer. Relax with locals of all ages, from the stodgy business guy in a suit to grandpa with his dog to the young punk kids.
Suggested beer gardens: Letna Park (Prague 7) with views of the city or Riegrovy Sady (Prague 2) for a more grungy, local flavor.
5. Glass of Wine at Grebovka Vineyard
There’s actually a small vineyard within Prague’s city limits. And, there just happens to be a little café (called Altan) with a great gazebo sitting right above it. These are the makings of a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine and a cheese plate. For quality, we actually suggest trying the Austrian wine over the local Grebovka wine.
Address: Grebovka park is in Prague 10. Closest tram stop is Krymska on 22, 16, or 4 tram lines. Finding your way here through the windy residential streets is part of the fun; this is not a touristy area at all.
Suggested Prague Restaurants
1. Grosseto Marina
This is the place you come for a view of the Prague castle, Vltava river and Malá strana – it would be hard to find a better one in the city. The food here is basic Italian pizzas and pasta, but the view from and the atmosphere in this boat-restaurant make it all a perfectly good value.
View from Grosseto Marina at night. Not bad, huh?
Address: Alšovo nábřeží in Old Town. Our suggestion is to call ahead to reserve a table on the deck or by a window so you can enjoy the view (+420 605 454 020).
2. Osteria Da Clara
This little Italian restaurant combines high quality Italian food (the chef once lived in Tuscany) with a friendly ambience in a great local neighborhood. We know because we used to live around the corner. The menu changes regularly and features daily and weekly specials. Prices are reasonable.
Address: Mexicka 7, Vrsovice (Prague 10), tel: +420 271726548
3. Masala
It might sound odd to come to Prague and eat at an Indian restaurant, but the food here is really exceptional. The lunch thalis – meat (120 CZK/$6) or vegetarian (100 CZK/$5) – are authentic and flavorful. The menu also features some unusual dishes like idly, vada and chaats.
Address: Pod Karlovem 12/1574, Prague 2 (the Manesova location doesn’t have lunch thalis)
4. Mozaika
Long one of our favorite restaurants, Mozaika features a list of continental and fusion regulars plus fresh weekly specials. Relaxed atmosphere and reasonably priced for the quality.
Address: Nitranska 13, Prague 3 (right near Jiriho z Podebrad Metro and square)
5. Czech Pubs
You’re probably asking by now, “That’s all great, but what about Czech food?” There is definitely no shortage of hospodas (pubs) serving Czech fare throughout the city with varying levels of quality and grease content.
If you want something with a little better meat quality and less grease, give one of the following places a try. In addition to good Czech food, they usually serve tank beer (unpasteurized), making the Czech beer drinking experience all the more enjoyable.
- Lokál: One of the newer additions to the Ambiante Restaurant empire. This place serves up quality Czech food at reasonable prices. Address: Dlouhá 33, Prague 1.
- Bredovsky Dvur: Just a block away from popular Wenceslas Square, but with a different feel from the high-traffic tourist areas. Try to go during lunch as there are inexpensive lunch menus and you’ll be enjoying your meal with locals on their lunch break. Address: Politických vězňů 13 (parallel street to Wenceslas Square), Prague 1
- Na Verandach: This restaurant is right at the Staropramen brewery, so you know the beer is fresh. Hearty food, too. Address: Nadrazni 84, Prague 5 (Smichov)
- Olympia: Nice Czech pub serving both Czech and continental specialties. Address: Vítězná 7, Praha 1 (Ujezd)
Honorable mentions of the Czech beer variety:
Prague Beer Museum: It’s not a restaurant and it’s really not a museum, but it does serve close to 30 different beers on tap from small to medium breweries across Czech Republic. This is the place to learn about Czech beer the old fashion way — by drinking it. The owner is meticulous about buying only small kegs, keeping the keg lines clean and changing the beer menu every three months. Just be careful and pace yourself — mixing heavy beers can have a devastating effect the next day.
Address: Dlouha 46, Prague 1
Pivovarsky Klub: Features hundreds of beers (Czech and international) on the menu. Ask the waiter for advice if you get paralyzed on what to order. This place also has good and reasonably priced Czech food, too.
Address: Krizikova 17, Praha 8 – Karlin
For more Prague restaurant recommendations, check out: Eating Ethnic in Prague
More Prague Resources:
A Different Kind of Prague Guidebook: If you’re looking for a quirky and personal guidebook for Prague, check out Karen Feldman’s Prague: Artel Style. In full disclosure, Karen is one of our friends. Regardless, her book is nothing short of a work of art, collector’s item. She knows the city very well. It’s hard to beat her eye for design, quirk and the finer pleasures that Prague has to offer.
A Different Kind of Prague Vacation: If you’d like to use your time in Prague to explore your creative side while digging deeper into Prague’s art and cultural scene, check out Artbreak. Their programs combine hands-on art classes with visits to art exhibitions and music concerts. In full disclosure, we have not availed ourselves of Artbreak’s programs, but we know one of its founders. It’s because of his integrity that we recommend it here.
More advice on Prague, podcast-style: If you’re still curious about what else we recommend to see, do and eat in Prague, listen to this podcast interview on Prague we did with Chris Christensen of Amateur Traveler.
May 15th, 2011 at 1:30 pm
LOVE Prague. The dumplings are fantastic and one of my favorite spots is the Natural History museum where they have the bones of a whale on view – SUSPENDED from the CEILING!
May 15th, 2011 at 1:44 pm
I spent two wonderful days in Prague, and definitely want more. Ohh the beer! Ohh the memories….. albeit, partial!
May 15th, 2011 at 2:51 pm
Hi! Thanks for your article. It’s interesting to read your perspective of the city. I’ve been living right in the city center (just off the Wenceslass Square) for over 10 year’s now. I think this area is ok during a night, I never faced a problem or anything that you describe (well, probably 10 year’s ago yes, but last few years, Prague is a very safe town indeed, especially the Wencesslas Square). Policemen are literary everywhere….Just for your information, I work as a professional tour guide and I run FB page Praga Caput Regni, where I write not only about famous sights, but also little hidden gems…You might find there an inspiration for further discoveries in Prague: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Praga-Caput-Regni/296474234892?v=wall
I enjoy reading your posts, especially from European countries. Fingers crossed for your travels! Marketa
May 15th, 2011 at 6:51 pm
I loved Prague when I visited for a mere 3 days a few years ago. It is the only super-touristy place I have ever fallen in love with, but I know I probably would have hated it if I dealt with the tourists much longer. I will definitely be saving this guide for my eventual return to the amazing city.
May 15th, 2011 at 8:22 pm
@AcceleratedStall: So glad to hear you had a positive experience in Prague and loved it! I used to work right next to the National Museum – know that place well! And those dumplings are great…especially with a freshly pulled beer.
@Northern Nomad: Each time we return to Prague (every 1-2 years) we are repeatedly surprised by how great the beer is. For pilsners, I can’t think of a better place in the world. Still inexpensive compared to Western Europe, too.
@Marketa: Thanks for commenting and sharing your thoughts from a local living near Wenceslas square! As I wrote, the area is not unsafe. But, it can be unpleasant to walk down in the evenings, especially as a foreign-looking man on his own. Sometimes if I want to play a trick on Dan, I get behind him so he’s walking by himself and then I watch the different strip club touts (for some reason, most come from West Africa – can’t figure out why) come up to him one by one offering him a free drink and a great “show.” He finds it less amusing than me
I just wish that the zoning of the city was such that the strip clubs were moved to another part of the city or that the touts were not as “active” on Wenceslas Square at night. Otherwise, it would be a really lovely place to walk at night as there are some beautiful buildings in that area.
@Stephanie: Prague is a wonderful city, but the tourist crowds and schlock can really be annoying. There’s a reason why locals essentially avoid the old town area in the summer months. Glad to hear you had a good visit and hope this guide helps when you return!
May 16th, 2011 at 2:10 am
I visited Prague in 2006 when I was studying abroad in London. It was mid-November, freezing, rainy, touristy and I just got a general bad impression, particularly compared to elegant Budapest which I loved. Still, some moments- the Charles Bridge at dusk for example, have still stuck with me to this day.
I’ve always known I didn’t give Prague a completely fair shake and I do want to return for a shot at it.
May 16th, 2011 at 2:20 am
Great post Audrey! I’m sharing it on arttrav facebook page… I recently visited Barcelona and skipped the Sagrada Familia; i’m all for totally missing the tourist areas, it just makes for frustration and disappointment. I’m not going to say that avoiding them makes for an “authentic experience” given the much debated term in relation to travel, but at least I didn’t get pickpocketed nor get the same photos everyone else did.
May 16th, 2011 at 2:20 am
These are really great suggestions, and I love that you include some specific places to eat, have a beer, etc. I will use this info. when I go back there. I spent a lot of time in Prague from 1996-2000 and then went back almost 4 years ago. It was crowded, and I hit the touristy places because I was with my husband, who hadn’t been there before and wanted to see the main sights. I still think they’re all worth visiting, except that awful Karlova. I love wandering the smaller streets on both sides of the river. Vysehrad is wonderful, but I also love the quaint areas beyond the castle, including Novy Svet.
May 16th, 2011 at 8:01 am
Ohhhh Masala! That place is a-ma-zing. I need to go back to Prague. Like, yesterday.
May 16th, 2011 at 11:45 am
@Steph: November is a pretty dreary time to visit Prague – the locals are just entering into their winter depression, but you still have the tourist crowds around. Prague and Budapest have such different styles and feel. If you do return to Prague and spend more time in the neighborhoods, you’ll probably get a bit of that laid back feeling that you like.
@Alexandra: The more we travel, the more we make decisions not to visit certain places on “must see” lists. Sometimes when we do decide to go to a certain site, the journey there is often more interesting that the final destination. That said, there are certain big sites that are really stunning. But, it’s almost like you have to go zen about the visit to not allow the crowds and tourist schlock to get you down in the process.
Thanks for posting this to the ArtTrav Facebook page!
@Jenna: Glad you agree with us on Karlova street! Hope this round up becomes useful for your next visit! Prague restaurants do change a lot, but we’ve been visiting many of these for years and the quality has stayed the same.
Yes, Novy Svet is another lovely area. I was also tempted to put Petrin down a well – the walk from Petrin to the castle through the fields can be quite peaceful as well. Lots of great places in the city away from the big crowds!
@Sarah: We just discovered Masala on this last visit to Prague and I really, really, really hope the quality doesn’t change or that they “Czechify” the food (as happens with a lot of ethnic restaurants in Prague). Love that place as well!
May 16th, 2011 at 7:47 pm
Excellent, detailed post! We last visited Prague 11 years ago and the tourist stuff wasn’t too bad then. I’m sure it has changed a lot.
I’m always amazed by how easy it is to escape tourist traps, often just by walking a few streets away.
May 17th, 2011 at 6:21 am
@Erin: While Prague still was rather touristy 11 years ago, the tourism machine has been ramped up quite a bit more since then. But, as you said, it’s often easy to avoid tourist traps by just walking a few blocks one direction or another to a local neighborhood.
May 19th, 2011 at 3:26 am
What???
No Oliva? For restaurants….
May 20th, 2011 at 10:03 pm
@Dave: Restaurant recommendations are tough – always hard to fit everything in. Oliva is a great restaurant in Prague – perfect for special occasions. Remember especially good duck there…
September 8th, 2011 at 5:55 am
Thanks for an awesome list. I only have a few days in Praga because I’ve been staying too long in places and have to move a bit faster as my 90days visa is running out and i’m still on my 3rd country
September 8th, 2011 at 10:09 am
@Wanderlass: Even in a few days you can get a feel for the city, don’t worry. Just be sure not to spend all your time in the tourist center, but get out to the neighborhoods, parks and other areas. If you have any specific questions we can help with, just ask!
October 9th, 2011 at 9:09 pm
I spent a month in Prague 3 years ago and had a blast, I hit all the places to avoid then got off the main street and hit the small pubs and restaurants and a few side trips to smaller towns where I had a blast.
October 10th, 2011 at 7:13 am
@Bob: So glad you had a good time during your visit to Prague a few years ago. You’re right – you usually don’t have to go very far off the tourist trail to find a quiet street with local places. Makes such a difference in one’s experience of the place.
November 4th, 2011 at 7:51 pm
roaming your wonderful site and my heart leaps anytime Prague is mentioned..two trips to date, ’91 and ’05, both late March,fewer tourists…just mad about that place on Earth…did the usual stops but with some resheduling was able to discover the outskirts, just staying on the trolley for hours circling the town and as luck would have it, stumbled upon Kobylisy, where we decided to stay for a few days…quaint, colorful, with friendly locals…had the two best meals there EVER..at Hoffman u Penzion and at the restaurant atop the Kobylisy subway station, Plzensky Restaurant Kobyla…salivating now remembering…sooo looking forward to seeing you on your visit to Scranton this month…really hope time permits a few rounds of pilsners !
November 5th, 2011 at 3:34 pm
@Frank: You must have seen so many changes between your first and second visit to Prague. Just trying to imagine. You took the right approach to get on public transport and see where it took you – there are some really lovely areas on the outskirts of town where there are friendly locals and so not touristy. Look forward to catching up in person soon in Scranton!
December 29th, 2011 at 3:56 pm
Hey guys, great tips in this post – you should tag it under Czech Republic on the left hand side. I knew it was here as I had read it ages ago, but it took me a while to find it today when we wanted to see what places you mentioned.
December 29th, 2011 at 4:22 pm
@Sam: Hope these tips were useful for your trip and thanks for the reminder to add this to the Czech Republic category!
January 26th, 2012 at 10:14 am
I stumbled on this post in the Travel Bloggers group on FB and I must say, thank you for this! I’m heading to Prague for the first time in April and I’ve been about concerned about how touristy it’s said to be. I’m only going to be there for 4 days and I’ll be visiting with my parents who are coming over to Europe from Canada. I’m sure we’ll want to see the popular sites but I’m not a fan of crowds so I’m looking forward to checking out some of your alternative selections. I’m a big foodie too so your restaurant tips have been duly noted. Thanks again!
January 26th, 2012 at 2:00 pm
@Allison: Really glad you found this piece before your trip with your parents. It is a beautiful city, but as you’ve heard it does have its overly touristy side. The main sites are definitely worth visiting – take a tram to the top of the castle and then walk through the castle, Malastrana to the Charles Bridge, through Karolinum (remember: avoid Karlova street!) to Old Town Square. A great walk and way to hit the main sites in one path.
Hope you have a great time!
June 8th, 2012 at 9:33 pm
Fantastic TIps! I’ve bookmarked it for my future travels back to this remarkable city. I agree, looking over your bill in restaurants is a MUST. We were charged a “tourist’ tax each time but didn’t realize it until we got home. I thought there was something fishy. Czech Republic is so beautiful, it’s so unfortunate the people are not respectful of tourists
June 10th, 2012 at 12:20 am
@Cristina: Thanks, glad you found these tips useful! Unfortunately, your story about being overcharged is too often the norm. I used to have a British boss who would tell me every weekend a story or two of how someone tried to “accidentally” miscount her change or add weird charges to bills. Really sad that people are not thinking of respecting tourists and good customer service that would encourage people to return to Prague again. But, once you know these “tricks” it makes it easier to navigate and call people out when they are trying to cheat you.
July 3rd, 2012 at 10:36 am
In 2009 while studying abroad in Spain a few of my friend and I went to Prague for a long weekend. We had an amazing time and loved the city, sights, culture, everything. The first we happened to stumble upon a locals pub that had fantastic authentic Czech food for an incredibly low price. The second night was quite the disaster. Not realizing that we were right around the corner from the Charles Bridge we stopped in a small restaurant that looks pretty simple, nothing special at all. When they brought over the menus we noticed there were no prices listed, and we made the fatal mistake of just assuming that everything would be fairly cheap. No such luck. The drinks were almost 15 euros a piece and the food itself while edible, not delicious, ending up costing each of us around 40 euro a person! Such a shame! You really do need to be careful to stay away from the tourist traps!
July 3rd, 2012 at 2:33 pm
@Vicky: Unfortunately, your story of the restaurant near Charles Bridge with the overpriced (and often mediocre) food is all too common for Prague. So glad you had the experience at the local pub first so that you had a feel for what local places and prices should be. Prague is a great place and there are still tons of good local places, but they are harder to find in the Old Town and tourist areas.
July 11th, 2012 at 9:17 am
Just got back from Prague and wish I saw this!
You are so spot on about the taxi scams. I got scammed by picking up a taxi in front of a train station (near the Prague Castle no less). I think the difficult part is not knowing how much a certain distance should really cost. This is also very similar in Budapest. Sigh. Otherwise, Prague is fantastic and the beer gardens are a lot of fun.
July 17th, 2012 at 2:08 pm
@Natalie: Ah, too bad this got to you too late! Your experience with the taxi scams (and from other people’s experiences with inflated bills) is exactly why we wrote this. Perhaps I should add a section in here on taxi companies to call that are reputable and don’t overcharge. And yes, the beer gardens are fantastic!
July 19th, 2012 at 8:15 am
I have to admit, I enjoyed the production at the astronomical clock, even with the crowds. Think your tip to go up to the roof top terrace is brilliant – we saw it when climbing the clock tower – would gladly have watched the clock from there!
Loved the beer gardens (and I don’t even drink beer!) – they had the most amazing schnitzel! I wouldn’t even be able to begin to try to name some of our favourite restaurants – we managed to find places so off the beaten track, we were the only english speakers most nights. Food was amazing and the prices were not jacked up for tourists! The one night, we didn’t have enough cash – the owner wasn’t phased! We had it all sorted out and on our way in no time!
Couldn’t get enough of Prague. We really didn’t have any problems other than tired feet! Not bad for 10 days of pounding the pavement!
July 22nd, 2012 at 9:42 pm
Thanks for the article. I been there 3 years ago and all the good stuffs which you suggested I had not been.. I went old square and spend most of the time waiting Astronomical Clock Show…haha..
Anyway I love the sunset there with the Prague castle scene behind…and it’s really awesome
July 25th, 2012 at 5:36 pm
@Anita: The astronomical clock show is kind of fun, but the crowds are too much for me. Maybe that’s the result of living in Prague for too long
Glad to hear you had such a good visit and got a taste of the local Prague scene, schnitzel, good beer and all.
@Ken: Easy to happen at the Astronomical Clock – lots of waiting and then people look around afterwards and ask, “Is that it?” Quite funny.
July 25th, 2012 at 9:51 pm
Hi Audrey,
Actually I watch three times with 12 noon, evening and 10pm night…I remember the 12 noon is the longest…other is not so special compare with the 12 noon
August 9th, 2012 at 9:38 pm
So glad I just found this information, Thanks Audrey. We will be visiting Prague for the first time in September 2012, and also Cesky Krumlov by bus. I will keep reading to find restaurant tips, etc. I prefer to stay away from very touristy spots myself so I enjoy reading about alternative places to visit. So to all, please keep the recommendations coming and how to avoid any scams
Thanks
August 11th, 2012 at 4:18 am
@Ken: Yes, the noon show at the astronomical clock is the biggest and longest, which is why it attracts the most people.
@Nor: So glad you stumbled upon this piece just before your trip to Prague. Hope you can enjoy some of these more local, less touristy places. Cesky Krumlov is also wonderful – really a magical little place. Enjoy and safe travels!
September 2nd, 2012 at 6:13 pm
We’ll be off to Prague this Thursday and returning on Monday next i.e. 10th Sep. We found your column useful and interesting for a fresher like us vsisting Prague for the first time. Will post again when we return.
Thanks for all the info anyway.
September 4th, 2012 at 4:46 am
@Bill & Violet: So glad that you found this before your trip to Prague – I hope it proves useful. Please let us know how your visit went!
September 20th, 2012 at 2:41 pm
Thanks! Going next month. We will listen to your suggestions. Although I have to say I am curious about the clock!
October 10th, 2012 at 2:21 pm
@Ashley: Just be sure to arrive early to get a good spot for the clock! Hope you have a great trip.
January 17th, 2013 at 5:33 pm
Great guide, I haven’t been back for a few years now but am returning with a group of friends in March. I am sure it has changed but I cannot wait to revisit such a wonderful place. It never fails to capture me never mind how touristy it is.
Will be looking for the “non-tourist” eating/drinking places though!
January 18th, 2013 at 5:25 am
@Kelly: Although Prague has become quite a touristed town, it is possible to find local places and get a feel for its “unpolished” self. As you’ve been there before, it will likely be easier as you know what to look for. And yes, even with all the tourist shops and such, it is a stunningly beautiful place. We still gaze up to the castle lit up at night in awe. Enjoy your trip!
February 23rd, 2013 at 6:42 am
Superb post; great info. I stumbled upon this while searching for ‘Prague non-tourist area’ (in preparation for our forthcoming visit to the city) and such a gem this turns out to be.
Can’t stop for suggesting (know it is not my place to do so) adding a link on stays – or perhaps such locations where a stay would be more worthwhile than the city centre areas. It is obviously a difficult call for a local because I would never stay in a hotel/GH/pension in my own city thus would not have much info on that
May be just the areas, like I would look up on stay options in Praha 7 (Holesovice), thanks to this post.
Thanks for the unadulterated, insider info.
March 2nd, 2013 at 5:12 pm
Great post!
As a Prague local, I hate tourist traps and all the scams and traps set up to rip off travelers who visit my city. The taxi drivers are the worst. If you need a cab (and I doubt you do – the Prague public transport is fast, safe and reliable), do what the locals do – call a central dispatch number (the two major taxi service numbers are 14014 and 14015). Your cab ride will be recorded, you get a text message upfront with the estimated price so the driver cannot rip you off. Always ask for the receipt upfront. As a local, I always call even if there’s a vacant cab standing right in front of me – it’s simply cheaper and safer. You normally wait for less than 10 minutes.
Otherwise the post is right on the money about most of the things to avoid. I would add the money exchange offices. Please read the fine print and never give away your money before you ask what precise amount you get for the precise amount of foreign currency you want to exchange. Once you let go of the money, it’s really hard to get it back.
Have a great stay in Prague!
Jan
March 14th, 2013 at 6:24 am
@Mauro: Your question about recommended neighborhoods to stay is a good one. Someone recently asked this on our Facebook page. I would say that staying in any of the suggested neighborhoods we mentioned above – Vrsovice, Holesovice or Vinohrady would be good. These days, there’s a lot available on airbnb or apartment rental places that often are better deals than hotels. So I’d probably start my accommodation search first with those. Hope you have a good trip!
@Jan: It is quite frustrating as a local to see these scams happen and people taken advantage of consistently (I had a British boss in Prague who was always scammed at restaurants). But, it’s good to see that some improvements have happened – last visit we noticed there were recommended fare signs near taxi stands so people could get a feel for what a trip should cost. But we always call a service instead of picking up a taxi on the street.
We’ve seen people go crazy at money exchange places because they didn’t read the fine print. Best to avoid them all together if you can. Thanks for the advice on this.
March 14th, 2013 at 9:53 am
[...] lived in Prague for five years, we share our favorite places, activities and restaurants to enjoy the city in just [...]
March 30th, 2013 at 12:14 am
This is great! Thanks for the insights.
April 12th, 2013 at 8:14 pm
I leave for Prague Tuesday. First trip to Europe! So for this Ohio woman, I’m in countdown mide. Have done all my prep, but so glad I tripped over this site when I went to search for two last things befor I meet my daughter there next week. I think and your followers will give me the best advice. 1) We plan on attending a performance at the State Opera. Question: I want great seats, better to order online from U.S. and if so what is a reputable website. If I wait, where do I go for great seats without getting ripped off? 2) We’re only there for 4 days. This is going to be our one “big hight”. Where to go for dinner for good food atmosphere and that fiew we’ll tell everyone about when we come home? Thanks to you for providing the layman’s point of view for the rest of us!
April 13th, 2013 at 11:58 am
@CK: To buy State Opera tickets in advance, you can try http://www.ticketsonline.cz/ – they charge a small commission, but I remember the prices of the actual seats being the same as if you bought them at the ticket office. Otherwise, just go to the State Opera when you get to Prague and check out what tickets are available – that’s the lowest price option.
As for a dinner recommendation, I’m trying to think of places with good food AND a nice view. You could try Hergetova Cihelna. Has a great view of the Charles Bridge and food was good (disclosure: been a few years since I last ate there). There’s also Grosseto Marina recommended above. Has great views of the castle.
Good luck and enjoy your trip!
April 28th, 2013 at 10:06 am
Thanks for valuable info, specially for indian tourist.