Crete Week: First Glimpses
Filed Under: Greetings from Crete!
Difficult to keep track of us sometimes, isn’t it? In one week, after a hop (from Berlin), a skip (to Prague), and a jump (from Munich), we’ve landed on Crete, the almost-southernmost island of Greece.
First morning seaside wake-up call.
We’ve just begun to explore the island and we thought you might like a taste – of the rivers of olive oil, the layers of history back to the ancients, and the Cretan people who are quite clearly a product of both.
Cretan Food
Fresh and fragrant is the name of the game with Cretan food. The island’s hills are covered with wild herbs such as sage, thyme, marjoram, even bay leaves (laurel). Olive oil, consumed at a staggering annual 25 liters per capita, is still very much a family business. And the temperate climate of the island means fresh vegetables and fruit for much of the year.
No wonder the traditional Cretan diet leans to health and long life. If what we ate on our first afternoon was any indication, we’re in for a treat.
Cretan lunch beginnings: dolmades, dakos and fasolakia, and a mountain landscape backdrop.
Crete History
Crete evinces a deep history. From the mythological cave where Zeus was born, to its Minoan palaces, Roman cities, and Venetian forts, to the World War II cemetery, Crete’s contours and soil tell a story of a Mediterranean crossroads.
Minoan Ruins at Phaistos. Talk about a beautiful setting.
The People of Crete
Although large areas of Crete are heavily developed with mass tourism, small villages are an easy drive away. Locals who’ve lived long drink coffee and while away the hours chatting — just as you might imagine they’ve done for ages.
Life has not been easy for many and people are anxious regarding the current economic crisis, but that doesn’t put a halt to the sense of hospitality and humor that Cretan people bring to the table. When the people we’ve spoken to discuss the current financial crisis, I’m quick to note – not to diminish but perhaps to commiserate – that the crisis brews also in America and ultimately worldwide.
As I took this woman’s photograph, she asked for a copy and said with a chuckle in a fullness of a life well-lived, still enjoyed: “If I like the photograph maybe I’ll use it on my gravestone.”
Coming Soon on Crete Week
In the coming days we’ll share visits to Crete’s main archeological draws of Knossos, Phaestos and Gortyn. We’re also hoping to hike through Samaria Gorge (weather permitting) and explore the areas in and around Chania and Rethymnon.
But for the moment, we take a lap with the locals, we share some bread and olive oil, and we get a sense of this big little island’s span of landscape, history and life.
Stay tuned.
Have you been to Crete? Do you have any suggestions for places to visit, local restaurants and awesome Cretan dishes to try?
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October 18th, 2011 at 8:05 pm
Wow, the view from your hotel room is spectacular! Looking forward to your blogs hot off the press on Crete!! I can believe it when you say people live long in Crete – their diet seems very healthy (although olive oil if overdone is not that healthy).
October 19th, 2011 at 1:15 am
I’ve been to Europe many times but admit I don’t know much about Crete. Great overview on the food, history, and people there. For me, history has become something I am a lot more interested in now that I travel than I did when I was in school. I think it makes me appreciate a place so much more knowing where the people have come from.
October 19th, 2011 at 4:46 am
Samaria Gorge on a donkey is a great experience!
Crete is wonderful, and the food is fabulous.
Enjoy!
If you get time, perhaps you could travel on to Cyprus and the middle east, as the weather is still usually great over the winter, by north european and north american standards anyway.
Best Wishes
Jackie
October 19th, 2011 at 5:07 am
Greece is by far my favorite place on Earth. The food is incredible and the Greek hospitality legendary. Looking forward to reading more!
October 19th, 2011 at 8:02 am
Just speechless. Wow.
October 19th, 2011 at 5:06 pm
Whoa guys Crete looks lovely!
Not sure about those old ladies though. They look like they’d give my scruffy self a proper old ear-bashing!
October 19th, 2011 at 6:19 pm
Fabulous images…makes me want to book a flight.
October 19th, 2011 at 8:54 pm
At least I can come here for beautiful pics when it’s 40 and pouring rain here in Michigan!
October 19th, 2011 at 9:35 pm
I have a high school classmate who is on a Mediterranean cruise stopping in Crete right now. I sent her a link to your website.
October 20th, 2011 at 10:09 am
I love the first image, whoa! what a place for an ideal breakfast. I love such places and just dream of being there someday. I think Crete is a fun place to be. Thanks for this information.
October 20th, 2011 at 1:59 pm
didnt know it was so beautiful over there what resort is that
October 23rd, 2011 at 9:11 am
A place or country’s food tells a great deal about their culture and way of life. After reading your post about Grecian food I had a renewed appreciation of their food. I love how olive oil flows in their country. Olive oil is not only a tasty food ingredient but it has amazing medicinal uses as well.
October 23rd, 2011 at 10:43 am
If you visit Heraklion, the capital city of Crete, you might find my website (in English) useful: http://www.nowheraklion.com and for daily updates follow us on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/NowHeraklion/103609336338402 – enjoy your time here on this wonderful island!
October 26th, 2011 at 1:58 am
Crete is such a beautiful place – I was in Chania earlier this year and I loved the old town there (and the resort of Gerani). Your pictures bring back fond memories of a great holiday!
October 27th, 2011 at 5:20 am
@Sutapa: We arrived at our hotel at 2 AM, so we had no idea about the view. It was such a wonderful surprise in the morning to pull open the curtains to see what you see above!
Cretans are very serious about their cuisine and their olive oil. We had many conversations about how the health benefits of olive oil really has a lot to do with the quality. Low acidity (e.g. 0.3-0.8) olive oil supposedly helps break down cholesterol and food, but lower quality olive oil does less so. But of course, everything in moderation…even with olive oil
@Jeremy: Before this trip, we didn’t know much about Crete either except for the beach vacations we used to see advertised at travel agents. After this trip, we realize there is so much more to the island. Like you, we appreciate the history and culture much more now, especially as it’s changing in so many places.
@Jackie: We weren’t able to go into Samaria Gorge, but we did stand on its edge and peak in. Beautiful!
We won’t be able to get to Cyrprus this year, but we are headed to the Middle East for the next 2-3 weeks (Iran). We like avoiding winter
@Christine: Greek (and Cretan) hospitality is pretty incredible. We left with a backpack full of gifts people kept giving us along the way! Really wonderful.
@Pooja: Thanks! Glad you enjoyed this!
@Will: These old ladies look tough, but they have a light side to them. But, they still might give you an old ear-bashing just to have some fun
@Joan: Just wait until we start writing about Cretan food and everything else we saw during the week. Than you’ll really want to book a flight!!
@Erik: Ugh, sorry about that weather! We did have rain on our first 2 days in Crete (supposedly there are only 60 rain days/year), but then it was beautiful after that. I’d highly recommend going in mid-October – not many tourists and the weather is still warm.
@Pete: Thanks for passing on the link! How did your friend enjoy the stop in Crete? Many Mediterranean cruises do stop off for a day on Crete to see Knossos or one of the towns like Rethymno or Chania.
@Azeem: It is a pretty nice breakfast view!
@Henry: The top photo was taken at Royal Mare resort just outside of Heraklion.
@Aubrey: Food is a great way to learn about the culture of a place. You can tell how important olive oil is to Cretan food by all the olive trees all over the island.
@Clive: Thanks for the information on Heraklion! We had a morning in the city of Heraklion – got to visit a local market, see the demonstrations and try a few local food specialties.
@Andrea: We were surprised by how physically beautiful Crete was. I don’t feel our photos do it justice – hills upon hills that then fall into the sea. Chania is lovely – we spent a couple of nights there.
January 24th, 2012 at 7:59 am
Crete is one of our favourite places to spend a holiday, and if you hire a car and explore the island you can find plenty of great places off-the-beaten-track. Take a trip to Aghia Pelagia, where the beaches are incredible and the seafood is to die for.
January 24th, 2012 at 9:44 am
Crete is the most wonderful island in Greece as well as Mykonos too, in my opinion.. The food in Crete is great, thank you for sharing this because I am planning on visiting Crete next summer!
January 24th, 2012 at 12:17 pm
@Adrian: We’ll be talking more about Crete in detail in the next few weeks, but your suggestion of renting a car on Crete to explore it independently is a good one.
@Stella: Enjoy the food on Crete. It is definitely something special.
March 30th, 2012 at 9:03 am
My husband and I love Crete so much that, over the years, we have bought 2 houses there. Sadly, we now have to sell one of them, so that we can pay off our UK mortgage. It’s especially sad, as it was named after our granddaughter (see website).
However, we plan to continue to visit Crete twice a year for as long as possible. Our favourite part of Crete is the Chania area, in NW Crete – and Chania itself is a really lovely city, with a wonderful covered market and plenty of fabulous tavernas just off the beaten track. Two, in particular, are in Kondilaki street (parallel to Halidon street). Ela is in a very old converted factory (sounds odd but it’s very beautiful) – and Xani – our absolute favourite, is just off Kondilaki street, opposite the old Jewish synagogue (which has a sad history). If you visit Xani, please say hello from Franky and Bernard to Dimitris and Margi. We especially recommend their avocado and orange salad, followed by chicken with prunes – both delicious! Their slow-cooked lamb and goat dishes and local wine are excellent too.
March 31st, 2012 at 1:41 pm
@Franky: We spent a couple of days in the Chania area and really enjoyed it as well. The town itself is nice, as are the hills and area just outside. We found the food on Crete to be excellent – such fresh ingredients! Glad to hear you are still able to visit Crete twice a year to enjoy the island!