According to our guidebook, this fort - Khakha Qala - dates back to the 3rd century BC. Currently, it serves as the home to a handful of Tajik soldiers guarding the border with Afghanistan. We were met with a soldier carrying an AK-47 and a stern "What do you want?!" in Russian. After showing our documents and giving some cigarettes, they gave us a tour and allowed us to walk around and peek across the river into Afghanistan.
Read more about our adventures in the Pamirs.