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A Boat to Nong Khiaw - Laos

We took the slow boat from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw in January at the height of Laos' dry season. The journey took 10 hours, as our driver navigated shallow waters and small rapids.

The reward - beautiful scenery the entire way - limestone mountains, village scenes, water buffaloes lounging by the river and scores of waving kids.

No less fascinating was our time in the sleepy town of Nong Khiaw. We trekked out of town to see some small villages and the caves where villagers hid out during the US bombings of the late 60s/early 70s.

More reading:
Boat Ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw

Villages around Nong Khiaw

Related tags:

Nong Khiaw - Laos - river - Nam Ou - village - kids - boat - Luang Prabang - people - animals - war -

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Our Boat from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw

This is the boat we took from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw along the Nam Ou River. It snugly fit about 12 people their backpacks. We were all sitting on remarkably tiny kindergarten style chairs - amusing for the first couple of hours, then the leg cramps set in...That said, the trip was terrific and worth every bit of discomfort. The scenery, including the landscape and people-scape, was impressive.Oh yeah, no bathrooms on board (obviously due to a severe shortage of space). When the boat finally made a pit stop (4 hours after launch), the urgency and pending relief was palpable. We haven't seen people move like that since the Black Friday release of the Cabbage Patch Kids.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Our Captain - Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw

He didn't say much, but he got us through shallow water and up small rapids in our little rickety boat with impressive skill. Every now and then he'd stick his hand out and the other boat traveling aside us would come over and hand him a lighter to light his cigarette. Not a man of many words.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Looking Out on the Nam Ou

Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Nam Ou Reflections

A taste of the landscape along the Nam Ou River.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Plying the Waters

Our boat traveled in a pair, in part for safety reasons and primarily because they sold too many tickets and couldn't shoehorn everyone to fit in one boat.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Kids on Shore

Kids play on shore and wave to us as we putter on by up the Nam Ou.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Waving, Waving Everywhere

Waving from boats, waving from the shore, just waving. And remarkably friendly smiles, too. That defines the journey along the Nam Ou from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Fishing, Nam Ou Style

Along the journey to Nong Khiaw, we saw groups of boys with masks on who apparently dive for their fish.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Layers of Limestone

More landscape cuts from the Nam Ou river between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Buffalo Lounge

One of the numerous herds of water buffalo relax along the Nam Ou riverside.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Main Street - Nong Khiaw

The main street of Nong Khiaw offers an odd blend of modern and traditional - thatch houses, satellite dishes, wooden carts and mobile phone card shops.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Looking North from Nong Khiaw

The Nam Ou carves an impressive path through the mountains of northern Laos.Read more about this boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.  

Temple Drum - Nong Khiaw

Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.  

Pink Water Lilies - Laos

Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.  

Village Outside Nong Khiaw

We originally planned a more substantial hike into the hills, but the Nong Khiaw tourist office had absolutely no information on...Nong Khiaw.So, we set off on the paved road out of town and headed towards the caves. We came across several villages along the way where simple village life lay in plain view. It was a great trek after all.Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.  

Village Innocence- Nong Khiaw

We trekked ourselves outside of Nong Khiaw and came across some villages that were paid less than the occasional visit from tourists.We showed the mother the photo afterwards in the display, and she called her family and friends around to look at it. Everyone in the village seemed to get a good laugh.Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.  

Great Smile! - Nong Khiaw

This man was hollowing out bamboo and making perfectly formed sticks...all day long, from the moment we passed in the morning to the moment we returned in the afternoon. He had a great smile.Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.  

Cross-eyed Goat - Nong Khiaw

No short supply of livestock in the mountains of Laos. This particular specimen didn't quite know what to do with us other than to pass us a perplexed look and take off up the mountain.Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.  

Drying Bamboo Flower Reeds - Nong Khiaw

This girl was laying out bamboo flower reeds to dry out in the sun. They are exported to Thailand for use in making pillows and car seats (or so we were told).Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.  

Handing Out a Book to Village Kids - Nong Khiaw

Audrey hands out one of the Lao alphabet books we bought from the children's book publishing and literacy program, Big Brother Mouse. We noticed a school in the village, so we figured there were some literate kids somewhere. Based on their reactions, these kids had never seen a book before. Imagine that. They simply did not know what to make of it, nor what to do with it. Audrey opened it and started flipping the pages. The kids got a kick out of pointing at the pictures and saying the word in Lao. Lots of giggles. In the end, we left the book with a couple of boys a few years older who looked like they could make better use of it.Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos and Big Brother Mouse.  

800-Pound American Bomb Crater - Nong Khiaw

This sign was above a huge crater in the ground next to the Tham Pha Tok cave where villagers hid out to escape American bombings.According to our guidebook, the American government dropped over two million tons of bombs between 1964 and 1973 as part of the Secret War to root out communist sympathizers. Parts of northwestern Laos are riddled with pock-marks and unexploded ordnance.Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.  

Flooded Rice Fields - Nong Khiaw

Rice fields below the Tham Pah Tok cave stand flooded in preparation for rice season.Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.  

The Bamboo Burn

If people are impatient, they can dry out the reeds by fire instead of letting them dry in the sun. How they manage to do this without burning their villages to the ground, we have no idea.Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.  

Late Afternoon on the Nam Ou

The late afternoon sun has its way with the Nong Khiaw landscape.Read more about the villages near Nong Khiaw, Laos.