Deserts and dictators. Yurts and nomads. Silk Road cities, staggering yet underrated mountain ranges, Soviet detritus, and one of the world’s greatest road trips.
This is Central Asia. The ‘Stans. Never well understood, but absolutely worth an attempt to understand.

A glimpse of Pik Lenin (23,000+ feet) along the Pamir Highway near the Kyrgyz-Tajik border.
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Filed Under: Central Asia, Travel by: Daniel Noll
41 Comments | 6 May 2011
“In your travels, did you ever feel like you were being followed?” a friend recently asked.
We looked up as if to page through our mind-file of creepy experiences: “No. At least we don’t think so.”
Note: Although we use the term “couch surfing” in the title, the experience related below was in no way connected to the
CouchSurfing network but was arranged through a friend. We are satisfied members of the CouchSurfing community and in no way mean to imply that CouchSurfing is unsafe.
Even when we answered, our response struck me as supremely naïve. Although we aren’t terribly important in the geopolitical grand scheme of things, somebody somewhere must have taken more than a casual interest in our movements. After all, we’d been throughout the former Soviet Union – including Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, and Kazakhstan — and to places like China and Burma.
Surely we had a tail somewhere along the way. Continue Reading »
Filed Under: Perspectives, Travel by: Audrey Scott
20 Comments | 25 July 2010
Three years. Yes, we are aware that this is an insanely long time to be on the road and living out of backpacks. So before we attempt to enlighten you with our travel secrets, we reflect.
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Filed Under: Travel by: Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott
21 Comments | 9 December 2009
We realize that we may confuse our readers occasionally. One day we’re writing about Tajikistan and the next day about Myanmar, all while traveling through Thailand.
Why so much bouncing around? Continue Reading »
Filed Under: Central Asia, Interactive Maps, Travel by: Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott
No Comments | 13 February 2008
From mosques and mountains to hats and limousines, the often unusual sights and scenery of the Caucasus and Central Asia always kept us guessing. If you check out the categories and keep reading, you’ll see why. Continue Reading »
- Golden Camel Awards, Part 1: Food and Markets
- Golden Camel Awards, Part 2: Logistics
- Golden Camel Awards, Part 3: Sights, People and Scenery
Filed Under: Caucasus, Central Asia, Travel by: Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott
6 Comments | 12 February 2008
No place takes the logic out of logistics, from pillar to post, like the former Soviet Union. Inspired by our own experiences, the following entries are in no logical order. Let’s dig in.
Worst Toilet: Svaneti Region of Georgia
Competition in this category was exceptionally fierce, but the nod goes to Svaneti. Although we highly recommend a visit to the region, we suggest you pack your hip waders for visits to the outhouse. Continue Reading »
- Golden Camel Awards, Part 1: Food and Markets
- Golden Camel Awards, Part 2: Logistics
- Golden Camel Awards, Part 3: Sights, People and Scenery
Filed Under: Caucasus, Central Asia, Humor, Travel by: Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott
No Comments | 11 February 2008
Filed Under: Caucasus, Central Asia, Technology by: Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott
1 Comment | 10 February 2008
I thought Americans liked to travel in comfort. I don’t know why you take a marshrutka.
You should take the marshrutka. There you will meet the real people.
– Two competing local views on whether or not we should subject ourselves to long-distance rides on marshrutka minivans, the dominant form of public transport in the Caucasus and Central Asia. Continue Reading »
Filed Under: Caucasus, Central Asia, Travel by: Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott
2 Comments | 8 February 2008
Welcome to the first and only Golden Camel Awards, a camel’s eye view of the best and worst that Central Asia and the Caucasus have to offer!
While most people don’t travel to the Caucasus and Central Asia solely to explore the cuisine, we had our share of pleasant eating experiences there. We also occasionally felt the wrath of a post-Soviet culinary hangover. If you are interested to know what constitutes a good eating experience (heavenly bread, drinkable vodka, and elusive vegetables) or what continues to haunt our food dreams, read on. Continue Reading »
- Golden Camel Awards, Part 1: Food and Markets
- Golden Camel Awards, Part 2: Logistics
- Golden Camel Awards, Part 3: Sights, People and Scenery
Filed Under: Caucasus, Central Asia, Food, Travel by: Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott
2 Comments | 6 February 2008
I just want to go home. I’m tired of all this visa stuff.
– A distressed traveler at the Kazakh embassy in Tashkent, Uzbekistan.
So what does sex have to do with Central Asian visas? Simple, really. Thinking about, planning around, and procuring visas for Central Asian countries begins to dominate one’s time and mindspace — almost to the point of obsession. We’ll leave it to you to do the rest of the comparison. Continue Reading »
- Sex and the Central Asian Visa
- Turkmenistan Visas and Letters of Invitation (LOI)
- Uzbekistan Visas and Letters of Invitation (LOI)
- Kazakhstan Visas and Letters of Invitation (LOI)
- Kyrgyzstan Visas
- Tajikistan Visas and GBAO Permits
Filed Under: Central Asia, Travel by: Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott
41 Comments | 6 February 2008